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Friday, July 6, 2018

Working principle of the alternator

Working principle of an alternator. 


Principle of Operation

Basic single-loop alternator.

Fig. 14.14. Basic single-loop alternator.

 In Fig. 14.14A the magnet rotates clockwise with its North Pole on the left-hand side and the South Pole on the right-hand side of the iron yoke. The lines of flux circulate round the yoke in a clockwise direction from the North to the South Pole. Also, the movement of the magnet causes the lines of flux to cut through the conductors and the induced voltage produces a flow of current in the conductor loop in a clockwise direction.
In Fig. 14.14B the magnet is now rotated a further half revolution so that the position of the magnet poles is reversed, with the North Pole being on the right-hand side of the yoke and the South Pole on the left-hand side. As a result, the direction of the lines of flux round the yoke is in an anticlockwise direction. This reverses the direction of flow of the generated current in an anticlockwise direction.
Thus due to the rotation of the magnet, the yoke poles continually change their north and south polarities. Consequently, the direction of the flux-path lines is constantly reversed so that the current in the conductors continuously changes from a maximum value in one direction to a maximum value in the opposite direction. A current with repeatedly changing of its direction of flow is termed as an alternating current (AC). With a two pole magnet the change of its
direction takes place once in every complete revolution of the magnet. The output produced by one complete revolution is called as an alternating-current cycle. 14.8.2. Construction
The alternators in practice use many conductor windings around a ring shaped yoke, known as the stator windings and the stator yoke (Fig. 14.15A). Also the rotor is made in two halves to reduce the voltage fluctuation further, and each half has several segment poles of like polarity so that when they are fitted together they form a ring of alternating North and South Poles (Fig. 14.15B).
Alternator. A. Section view. B. Pictorial view of rotor and stator.
Fig. 14.15. Alternator. A. Section view. B. Pictorial view of rotor and stator.
An exploded view of a typical alternator (Lucas) is shown in Fig. 14.16. This alternator is a 3-phase, 12 pole machine having a rectifier and micro-electronic regulator. The casing of the alternator is made of lightweight aluminium alloy, and it contains :
(i) the rotor to form the magnetic poles,
(ii) the stator to carry the windings in which the current in generated, (Hi) the rectifier pack to convert AC and DC, and
(iv) the regulator to limit the output voltage.
Exploded view of alternator.
Fig. 14.16. Exploded view of alternato

Rotor.


 The rotor has a field winding, wound around an iron core and pressed on to a shaft. An iron claw is placed at each end of the core to form 12 magnetic poles. Each claw has 6 fingers to form separately North Poles and South Poles (Fig. 14.17).
The magnet excitation winding is wound around a soft-iron core. Two carbon brushes rub on two copper slip rings, and make contact with the windings. Two types of brush arrangement in use are ;
(a) Cylindrical or barrel type in which two slip rings are placed side-by-side.
(6) Face type in which the two brushes are fitted coaxially with the shaft.
The rotor is driven by the crankshaft through a vee-belt-pulley and Woodruff-type key. Since alternators are operated for speeds up to 15,000 rpm, and because the belt tension must be sufficient to prevent slip at this high speed, the rotor is supported on ball bearings. These bearings are lubricated and sealed for its life period. A centrifugal fan fitted adjacent to the pulley circulates air through the machine to cool the semiconductor devices used in the sys­tem and to prevent overheating of the windings.
Rotor construction.
Fig. 14.17. Rotor construction.
Stator. The stator is a laminated soft-iron member attached rigidly to the casing which carries three sets of stator windings (Fig. 14.18). The coils of comparatively heavy-gauge enamelled copper wire form the stator windings and are arranged so that separate AC waveforms are induced in each winding when cut by the changing magnetic flux. The two ways in which the three sets of windings can be interconnected are (i) Star and (ii) Delta.
 Stator construction.
Fig. 14.18. Stator construction.< Stator windings.
Fig. 14.19. Stator windings.
Both types of stator windings are shown in Fig. 14.19. In the Star arrangements, one end of the three windings is connected together and the output current is supplied from the ends A, B and C. In the Delta arrangement the three windings are connected in the form of the Greek letter ‘A’ and the output is again taken from points A, B and C.
The main difference between the two connections is in the magnitude of the output. In the Star arrangement the voltage between any two output points is the sum of the emf induced in two associated windings, whereas the voltage from the Delta arrangement is limited to the emf induced in a single winding only. For a given speed and flux density,
Voltage output from star winding = 1.732 x voltage output from Delta winding.
The output from the Star arrangement is obtained mainly from two windings, but the total is not doubled. It is because only one winding can be positioned at any one time at the point of maximum magnetic flux, hence the value 1.732 i.e. V3~. The energy generated for both arrange­ments at a given speed is equal, and hence a comparison of current outputs gives,
Current output from Delta winding = 1.732 x current output from Star winding.
The majority of the alternators for light-cars use the star windings, but the Delta wound stator is preferred for higher current output. On some special designs of heavy-duty alternators, the stator windings can be altered from Star to Delta when a large output current is needed.
14.8.3.

Current Rectification

For rectification of the generated current, some alternators install an external plate-type selenium rectifier, but most units use semiconductor diodes, arranged to form a bridge network. With a 3-phase output, 6 diodes are arranged as shown in Fig. 14.20 to give full wave rectification. Since the diodes act as one-way valve, the current generated in any winding always flows to the battery through the terminal B+. A complete circuit is required for the flow of this direct current, therefore an appropriate earth diode (the negative diode in this case) is used to pass current from ‘earth’ to the active winding.
In addition to current rectification, the diodes do not allow flow of current from the battery when the alternator output voltage is less than the battery voltage. Therefore the diodes eliminate the use of a cut-out as is necessary in a dynamo charging system. With the alternator
stationary, the connection to the alternator B+ is ‘live’. This must be remembered while demounting an alternator from the engine. The battery earth terminal should be disconnected prior to initiating work on the alternator.
Figure 14.21 illustrates various options adapted to mount the rectifier diodes. However, in all con­structions the semiconductors must be kept cool, so it is common to mount the diodes on a heat sink made of an aluminium alloy block or plate.
14.8.4.

Field Excitation

Unlike the dynamo, insufficient residual mag­netism is present in the magnetic poles to initiate the charging process, hence a battery initially excites (activates) the field magnets. Early alternators incorporated a field relay to connect the battery to the field when the ignition is switched-on. Presently a self-excited system with three field diodes is used to supply the rotor field with a portion of the current generated by the
Rectifier circuit.
Fig. 14.20. Rectifier circuit.
 Some common rectifier packs indicating diode location.

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

DIY Charge controller


How to make a solar charge controller




This is an automatic switching circuit that used to control the charging of a battery from solar panels or any other source. It’s a 555 based simple circuits the charge the battery when the battery charge goes below the lower limits, and stop charging when the battery reaches it's upper limit voltage.


This is the driving circuit of the DIY AUTOMATIC SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER.
To make this circuit you need
1. NE555 IC with IC holder
2. One 2N2222 or PN222a Transistor
3. Three 1K Ohm resistors
4. One 330 Ohm & 100 Ohm resistors
5. Two 330 Ohm 1/5 w resistors(optional)
6. Two 10K variable resistor
7. Two LEDs (green & red)
8. 1N4007 Diode
9. 5V SPDT relay
10. two, 3-Pin PCB connector
11. Wires
12. PCB
13. LM7805 (TO-220 type)
14. Two capacitors(i am using .1uF,you can use any)
15.IRF 540 MOSFET
This is the finished circuit (Fig)
The 5v relay is the main component of this circuit; it’s an SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay. It have one common (pole) terminal and 2 contacts in 2 different configurations. One is N.O (Normally Open) and other one is N.C (Normally closed)
In our case we connect the +ve of the solar panel to the pole of the relay and +ve of the battery to N.O when the battery is connected to the SCC (solar charge controller) the circuit check the battery voltage the voltage is less than or equal to lower limit the current is flows to the battery and battery start charging. When the battery voltage reaches the upper limit, the rely is activated and the current is redirect to N.C for dumping


After finishing the circuit you need to set the upper and lower limits. Batter calibration is required to avoid the overcharging and over discharging of the battery. I am using 12v as lower lower limit and 14.9v as upper limits. that means when the battery charge reaches the 12v battery start charging.wen the battery voltage reaches the upper limit or 14.9 volt .the relay is activated and circuit start dumping
To set the limits you will need a multimeter and a variable power supply or two power supplies. one with 12v and other one with 15v.first you will need to set the lower limit. for that set the voltage to 12v and connect it to the circuit. connect the ground weir to the conmen of the multimeter and touch the testing probe to the pin 2 of the 555 IC. Adjust the voltage by adjusting the VR to get 1.66 volte. Then set the voltage to 14.9v and touch the probe to the pin 6 of the 555 IC. adjust the voltage to 3.33v.check once aging .now over SCC is ready for use




The Fig show the wiring diagram of the SSC
First connect the +ve from the solar panel to the centre pole of the relay then connect a red wire from battery to N.O of the relay. connect the –ve wire from the solar panel to the -ve of the circuit then connect the battery’s–ve to the circuit.

when the battery voltage is less than 14.9 v the it start charging by passing current through N.O of the relay. when the batteries voltage reached 14 volt its automatically switch the relay to N.C.if you are using solar panel you don't need an dummy load to dump the excess power. you can add an extra battery to the N.C to harvest the excess power.

Watch the video at:

https://www.google.com.ng/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=%23&ved=0ahUKEwjv1fiP84bcAhVlBsAKHeH2B3kQxa8BCCIwAw&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov

Check this website: www.alldatasheets.com
                                              Mainz

DIY Alternators

How to make an alternator 


A Homemade Alternator in a Wooden Frame

You can build a simple Permanent Magnet (PM) alternator with just a few items. This is an excellent way for a beginner to learn about electricity and motors. By following these simple steps, you will have a working PM alternator that you can use to recharge batteries or run small electronics projects.
Take a coffee can lid and trace the rotor size in the center. Hold the disc against the rotor perpendicular to the motor and check that you have it directly centered. Do not attach the disc--lay it flat on your work surface.
Take your magnets and arrange them around the disc fairly evenly spaced apart. Now turn the magnets so that the pole of each magnet alternates with the pole of its neighbor. Put a small drop of glue on the metal disc near the edge, and place your first magnet. The edge of your magnet should be flush with the edge of the disc. Let the glue dry so the magnet is firmly held in place. Take your shim material and experiment with various layers of shims until you are sure that if you were to hold the shims against the first magnet you placed and then put down the next magnet, that you could repeat that process until all 14 magnets are placed on the disc evenly spaced. When you are sure you have the right amount of shims to do this, glue the rest of the magnets around the edge of the rim. You can use a glue accelerator to speed the process. Make sure the poles remain in their alternating position.
Glue the disc to the rotor, or use several small, strong magnets to attach it. You can turn the motor on and test to see that the disc will remain attached to the rotor as the engine turns.
Take your small wood frame and mounting hardware and mount your motor to the center so the rotor can spin the magnet disc freely. Your frame should be large enough that you can place your wooden blocks near the spinning disc but not be touched by it. The frame can either lie flat, or you can make a stand to hold it upright.
Using the hand-held coil winder, wind two coils of about 400 turns each of the magnetic wire. Make sure you leave both ends of the wire free, and strip the covering off them--this will be how you connect the coils. Once you have your coils, drip superglue onto them and let this dry.
Take your small block of wood and mount your first coil by gluing it flat to the wood. Place the block onto your wood frame. You will want to make sure to test that your magnet wheel can spin freely over the coil; the most space you want between your magnet and coil is about 1/8 of an inch. When you are sure that it is positioned correctly, glue the block onto the frame. Glue your second coil to a block of wood. Turn the magnet wheel so one of the magnets is centered directly over the first coil. Hold the wheel firmly in place and glue the second block into position so it is centered directly below a magnet. It does not matter where on the wheel you place your second coil.
Connect both coils together by taking one wire from each and splicing it together. You can attach the second wire to the object that will receive the electricity generated by your alternator. For now, take your multimeter and attach it to the free wires, get a reading of the voltage being generated and experiment with the placement of the coils until you are satisfied with their output.

Tip

When placing the magnets, hold the magnet you are getting ready to glue in place over the one you just glued to make sure that the poles are repelling each other. This will insure that you are alternating poles as you place the magnets.

Warning

The magnets used in this project are powerful, so use caution in handling them as they may come together quickly, pinching you and possibly tearing your skin.
A Homemade Alternator in a Wooden Frame
You can build a simple Permanent Magnet (PM) alternator with just a few items. This is an excellent way for a beginner to learn about electricity and motors. By following these simple steps, you will have a working PM alternator that you can use to recharge batteries or run small electronics projects.
Take a coffee can lid and trace the rotor size in the center. Hold the disc against the rotor perpendicular to the motor and check that you have it directly centered. Do not attach the disc--lay it flat on your work surface.
Take your magnets and arrange them around the disc fairly evenly spaced apart. Now turn the magnets so that the pole of each magnet alternates with the pole of its neighbor. Put a small drop of glue on the metal disc near the edge, and place your first magnet. The edge of your magnet should be flush with the edge of the disc. Let the glue dry so the magnet is firmly held in place. Take your shim material and experiment with various layers of shims until you are sure that if you were to hold the shims against the first magnet you placed and then put down the next magnet, that you could repeat that process until all 14 magnets are placed on the disc evenly spaced. When you are sure you have the right amount of shims to do this, glue the rest of the magnets around the edge of the rim. You can use a glue accelerator to speed the process. Make sure the poles remain in their alternating position.
Glue the disc to the rotor, or use several small, strong magnets to attach it. You can turn the motor on and test to see that the disc will remain attached to the rotor as the engine turns.
Take your small wood frame and mounting hardware and mount your motor to the center so the rotor can spin the magnet disc freely. Your frame should be large enough that you can place your wooden blocks near the spinning disc but not be touched by it. The frame can either lie flat, or you can make a stand to hold it upright.
Using the hand-held coil winder, wind two coils of about 400 turns each of the magnetic wire. Make sure you leave both ends of the wire free, and strip the covering off them--this will be how you connect the coils. Once you have your coils, drip superglue onto them and let this dry.
Take your small block of wood and mount your first coil by gluing it flat to the wood. Place the block onto your wood frame. You will want to make sure to test that your magnet wheel can spin freely over the coil; the most space you want between your magnet and coil is about 1/8 of an inch. When you are sure that it is positioned correctly, glue the block onto the frame. Glue your second coil to a block of wood. Turn the magnet wheel so one of the magnets is centered directly over the first coil. Hold the wheel firmly in place and glue the second block into position so it is centered directly below a magnet. It does not matter where on the wheel you place your second coil.
Connect both coils together by taking one wire from each and splicing it together. You can attach the second wire to the object that will receive the electricity generated by your alternator. For now, take your multimeter and attach it to the free wires, get a reading of the voltage being generated and experiment with the placement of the coils until you are satisfied with their output.

Tip

When placing the magnets, hold the magnet you are getting ready to glue in place over the one you just glued to make sure that the poles are repelling each other. This will insure that you are alternating poles as you place the magnets.

Warning

The magnets used in this project are powerful, so use caution in handling them as they may come together quickly, pinching you and possibly tearing your skin.

Check out the link for the video:
https://www.google.com.ng/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=%23&ved=0ahUKEwi99Jq164bcAhWnBsAKHevJCjIQwqsBCCIwAQ&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov
                        
                                                 Mainz 

DIY Inverter circuits

How to convert a 12v DC to a 220v AC using converter circuits




Inverters are often needed at places where it is a little or not possible to get AC supply from the Mains. An inverter circuit is used to convert the DC to AC power. Inverters can be of two types True/pure sine wave inverters and modified sine wave inverters (more like modified square wave). These true /pure sine wave inverters are costly ,while modified sine wave inverters are inexpensive.
These modified inverters produce a square wave and these are not used to power delicate electronic equipments . Here, a simple voltage driven inverter circuit using power transistors as switching devices is built, which converts 12V DC source to single phase 220V AC.

Principle Behind this Circuit

The basic idea behind every inverter circuit is to produce oscillations using the available DC source and apply these oscillations across the primary end of the transformer by amplifying the current. This primary voltage is then stepped up to a higher voltage depending upon the number of turns in primary and secondary coils.

Inverter circuit Using Transistors

A 12V DC to 220 V AC converter can also be designed using simple transistors. It can be used to power lamps up to 35W but can be made to drive more powerful loads by adding more MOSFETS.
The inverter implemented in this circuit is a square wave inverter and works with devices that do not require pure sine wave AC.

Circuit Diagram


Components required

  • 12v Battery
  • MOSFET IRF 630 -2
  • 2N2222 Transistors
  • 2.2uf capacitors-2
  • Resistor
    • 680 ohm-2
    • 12k-2
  • 12v-220v center tapped step up transformer.

Working

The circuit can be divided into three parts: oscillator, amplifier and transformer. A 50Hz oscillator is required as the frequency of AC supply is 50Hz.
This can be achieved by constructing an Astable multivibrator which produces a square wave at 50Hz. In the circuit, R1, R2, R3, R4, C1, C2, T2 and T3 form the oscillator.
Each transistor produces inverting square waves. The values of R1, R2 and C1 (R4, R3 and C2 are identical) will decide the frequency. The formula for the frequency of square wave generated by the astable multivibrator is
F = 1/(1.38*R2*C1)
The inverting signals from the oscillator are amplified by the Power MOSFETS T1 and T4. These amplified signals are given to the step-up transformer with its center tap connected to 12V DC.

Output Video

The turns ratio of the transformer must be 1:19 in order to convert 12V to 220V. The transformer combines both the inverting signals to generate a 220V alternating square wave output.
By using a 24V battery, loads up to 85W can be powered, but the design is inefficient. In order to increase the capacity of the inverter, the number of MOSFETS must be increased.

12v DC to 220v AC Converter Circuit Using Astable Multivibrator

Inverter circuits can either use thyristors as switching devices or transistors.  Normally for low and medium power applications, power transistors are used. The reason for using power transistor is they have very low output impedance, allowing maximum current to flow at the output.
One of the important applications of a transistor is in switching.  For this application, the transistor is biased in saturation and cut-off region.
When the transistor is biased in saturation region, both the collector emitter and collector base junctions are forward biased. Here the collector emitter voltage is minimum and collector current is maximum.
Another important aspect of this circuit is the oscillator. An important use of 555 Timer IC is in its use as an astable multivibrator.
An astable multivibrator produces an output signal which switches between the two states and hence can be used as an oscillator. The frequency of oscillation is determined by the values of capacitor and resistors.
 Circuit Diagram

Circuit Diagram of 12v DC to 220v AC Converter 
Circuit Components
  • V1 = 12V
  • R1 = 10K
  • R2 = 150K
  • R3 = 10Ohms
  • R4 = 10Ohms
  • Q1 = TIP41
  • Q2 = TIP42
  • D1 = D2 = 1N4007
  • C3 = 2200uF
  • T1 = 12V/220V step up transformer

Circuit Design Explanation

Oscillator Design:An astable multivibrator can be used as an oscillator. Here an astable multivibrator using 555 timer is designed. We know, frequency of oscillations for a 555 timer in astable mode is given by:
f = 1.44/(R1+2*R2)*C
where R1 is the resistance between discharge pin and Vcc, R2 is the resistance between discharge pin and threshold pin and C is capacitance between threshold pin and ground.  Also the duty cycle of the output signal is given by:
D = (R1+R2)/(R1+2*R2)
Since our requirement is f =50Hz and D = 50% and assuming C to be 0.1uF, we can calculate the values of R1 and R2 to be 10K and 140K Ohms respectively. Here we prefer using a 150K potentiometer to fine tune the output signal.
Also a ceramic capacitor of 0.01uF is used between the control pin and ground.
Switching Circuit Design:Our main aim is to develop an AC signal of 220V. This requires use of high power transistors to allow the flow of maximum amount of current to the load. For this reason we use a power transistor TIP41 with a maximum collector current of 6A, where the base current is given by the collector current divided by the DC current gain.  This gives a bias current of about 0.4A *10, i.e.4A. However since this current is more than the maximum base current of the transistor, we prefer a value less than the maximum base current. Let us assume the bias current to be 1A. The bias resistor is then given by
R= (Vcc – VBE(ON))/Ibias
For each transistor, the VBE(ON) is about 2V. Thus Rb for each is calculated to be 10 Ohms. Since the diodes are used for biasing, the forward voltage drop across the diodes should be equal to the forward voltage drops across the transistors. For this reason, diodes 1N4007 are used.
The design considerations for both the PNP and NPN transistors are same. We are using a PNP power transistor TIP42.
Output Load Design: Since the output from the switching circuit is a pulse width modulated output, it might contain harmonic frequencies other than the fundamental AC frequency. For this reason, an electrolyte capacitor needs to be used to allow only the fundamental frequency to pass through it. Here we use an electrolyte capacitor of 2200uF, large enough to filter out the harmonics. Since it is required to get 220V output, it is preferred to use a step up transformer. Here a 12V/220V step up transformer is used.

12v DC to 220v AC Converter Circuit Operation

  • When this device is powered using the 12V battery, the 555 timer connected in astable mode produces square wave signal of 50Hz frequency.
  • When the output is at logic high level, diode D2 will conduct and the current will pass through diode D1, R3 to the base of transistor Q1.
  • Thus transistor Q1 will be switched on. When the output is at logic low level, diode D1 will conduct and current will flow via and D1 and R4 to the base of Q2, causing it to be switched on.
  • This allows the DC voltage to be produced across the primary of the transformer at alternate intervals. The capacitor ensures that the frequency of the signal is at the required fundamental frequency.
  • This 12V AC signal across the primary of the transformer is then stepped up to 220V AC signal across the transformer secondary.

Applications of 12v DC to 220v AC Converter Circuit

  1. This circuit can be used in cars and other vehicles to charge small batteries.
  2. This circuit can be used to drive low power AC motors
  3. It can be used in solar power system.

Limitations

  1. Since 555 Timer is used, the output may slightly vary around the required duty cycle of 50%, i.e. exact 50% duty cycle signal is hard to achieve.
  2. Use of transistors reduces the efficiency of the circuit.
  3. Use of switching transistors has the possibility of causing cross over distortion in the output signal. However this limitation has been reduced to some extent by the use of biasing diodes.
Note
Instead of 555 timer one can use any astable multivibrator. For example this circuits can also be build using 4047 astable multivibrator,whose output current is amplified and applied to the transformer.
Mainz